Change those BOLTS?

I thought it might be an idea to have a tutorial of what size screws/bolts people will need to change on their CAG?
So many of them strip, exhaust and motor mounts are an example.


Thanks
Adrian

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Performance Central - Free Car Part Classifieds

If I recall correctly M6x1.0x25 for the engine mount bolts
M6x1.0x40 for the clutch bell and that's the most important ones.
M6x1.0x40 for the stock heads as well.
M6x1.0x25 for the exhaust manifold

M5x0.8x25 for the top engine mounts. I prefer longer ones as then I can stick a nylock on the bugger so it never ever falls out.
M5x0.8x45 to hold the two halves of the crankcases together.

If i'm wrong CORRECT ME!

When looking for bolts you can usually give a little in the thread length such as adding 5 - 15mm in length if required without drama, You can always cut the bolt shorter. But I wouldn't suggest going any shorter

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No wheels - Woe is me

"It is better to say nothing and be thought a fool than to open ones mouth and remove all doubt."

M6 by 1.0 on the engine mounts, clutch, head, exhaust bolts

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Tips for securing fasteners in such a way that they won't come loose.
On the Chinese made pocket bikes especially the metal is very soft so high tension on a bolt isn't the best way to secure it. If anything it only increases your chances of stripping out threads. This is no good.

If you wish for a bolt to stay in use some medium thread locking compound if you wish to ever unscrew the bolt again and then only do it up until it's really nipped up tight. Don't tighten it to death. Overtightening on small fasteners is the primary reason for them to fall back out.
If you don't want to to come out again use a high strength locking compound. These are brilliant because i've often seen heads on bolts strip out before the thread lock lets go. It's good stuff. But it can broken down easily with a little heat from a high temperature source such as a butane torch.

What do I use personally ? I use the blue medium strength Loctite all over my bike and it does the job wonderfully. Just a little goes a long way. Vital areas such as brakes and tripple clamps get the permanent RED loctite for safety.

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No wheels - Woe is me

"It is better to say nothing and be thought a fool than to open ones mouth and remove all doubt."

i think i remember my old tafe teacher saying ' make loctite your best friend '

and i have :P

also use the spring washers witht the lil split in one side, under load these compres and 'lock in' to the bolt head and the other surface being screwed into. they work a treat also

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Blata rep Watercooled
Triple stage reeds,19mm dell
Reed Spacer,Gloss white
Senior Stock Watercooled
South Morang & Port Mel
Cag in the making

Couldn´t agree more, its only a few cents and makes a big difference.

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125 pit bike
Banshee
CAG project bike

Dialy driver- WA-500 Loader

I think the exhaust and engine mount bolts use the spring washers?

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Performance Central - Free Car Part Classifieds

flat or spring washers are good to use on any bolt

this will stop the head of the bolt grabbing the face of the part your bolting on & if u need to get the correct tension (cars japbike head bolts etc) its the best way to get a tru tension reading

& everyone should have a bottle of loctite 262 handy

And the other thing is not too much loctite. I have bought bikes that have had that much, the bolts for the discs broke and loctite can be seen all over the bike. Only a few of the bolts on my bikes have loctite, I have nothing but stainless steel bolts with no washers or loctite and these never come loose. Stainless bolts will lock in when tightened in alloy! They make a crack sound when you undo them they lock in that well.

Hey guys, found this on another forum, but figured it couldn't hurt to post it here for reference.
***PRINT THIS OUT!!!***

How-To's: Hardware Shopping List
I found the list that was posted previous to the site hack. I printed it out and have no reference of who originally posted. However, it's useful and here is the original post:
================
6mm x 30 (x2) Handlebars (+ 6mm washers and locknuts optional)
5mm x 30 (x4) Front Arms
5mm x 20 (x2) Pegs
6mm x 20 (x1) Tank
6mm x 16 (x4) Motor
OR
6mm x 20 (x4) Motor w/ 8 Dampening Washers
6mm x 16 (x2) Brakes (+ 6mm locknuts (x2))
6mm x 16 (x1) Stock Pipe Bracket
OR
6mm x 20 (x1) Stock Pipe Bracket w/ 2 Dampening Washers
6mm x 10 (x2) Front Fairing Mount
6mm x 35 (x2) Chain Guard
4 Dampening Washers for Seat
10mm locknuts (x2) Axles
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The dampening washers are to help remove vibrations. I used 1/4 x 5/8 bonded sealing washers (basically a washer with rubber on one side).

***Note: I've done the dampening washers on both my Cagllari/Daytonas, and the reduction in engine vibration is amazing! I highly recommend doing this, and it only takes about an hour.***

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"The Rat":No fairings, period.Volkswagon gas filter.DuPont spraycan muffler.Altoids box air cleaner. Dremel wrench killswitch cover.Check it out here: http://www.pocket-bike-racing.com.au...html#post92825