i have a mod that i don't think has been mentioned yet, if you drill out your fuel switch .5mm bigger then what it is already it will let more fuel it the motor which gives you more power. note it takes some tuning to get it right with the fuel air mixture
just reading through this thread and i saw about the 1 piston ring it works if u take the bottom ring off and leave the top ring on and i heard it gives a tad more compression aswell
"have a mod that i don't think has been mentioned yet, if you drill out your fuel switch .5mm bigger then what it is already it will let more fuel it the motor which gives you more power. note it takes some tuning to get it right with the fuel air mixture"
if you mean the fuel tap i doubt this would help any with power as the jet in the carb meters the fuel in the end, so supplying any more or any less to the fuel bowl wouldnt really affect it.
but i drilled mine anyway just to help supply the float bowl with a bit more juice as assurance.
hi
i dont know much bout these mini bikes could u tell me what 'cag' mean?
thankyou.
Cag was the 1st 'fun' produced mini moto by Cagllari.
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China have produced 3 main, and very popular types of bike. Priced normally at under or around $200 $250 for the latest spec, these bikes are great value for money, and are a lot of fun to ride. Aimed at people who dont want to fork out hundreds for a race-ready mini moto has made these bikes a big hit amongst kids and adults alike. The basic Cag bikes can be used on a track, but not for proffesional racing. Cagclub.co.uk Bikes
quoted from this webpage have a read its a great bit of info Cagclub.co.uk Bikes
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i have i problem with my bike, it won't stay running so i have to hold the acceleration handle if i let go the bike turns off can Anyone help me with this problem? "GSM-05 49cc samurai of ebay"
People occasionally ask how to tell if they should use an advance timing key. Unfortunately there is no easy answer as it depends on your crankshaft and flywheel. Both vary depending on which factories in China made them.
RD RACING posted this info a couple of years ago on checking your timing to determine if you should use an advance key or not.
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Originally Posted by RD RACING
a very simple method of seeing where your ignition timing is set before you add any advancement keys is to do this, remove the pullstart cover and the coil, now you must turn the engine over slowly by hand in a clockwise direction until your piston is at top dead center [rocking] it may help to remove the sparkplug for the ease off of compression, when you are satisfied that the piston is right at the top you must mark with a pencil the centre of the base of the barrell, measure between the 2 barrell bolts that are the closest to the flywheel side, this measurement will be 4.5 cms halved will be 2.25 cms mark a line at this centre area then have a close look at where your flywheel magnets are positioned, you will see 2 separate magnets in the flywheel the last magnets end should line up with your pencil mark, if it does you can fit a 10 degree advance key, you can also fit this key if even the last half of the magnet lines up with your pencil mark, this is retarded timing so it will also help to fit the key, if the last magnet has gone past your pencil mark by say 5mm don,t fit a 10 deg, key, do this measuring proccedure a couple of times for your own satisfaction. and remember the flywheel is to be turned clockwise so you will end up with the correct last magnet end. if you have your engine out and on a bench with the barrell removed you would be guaranteed of a perfect measurement as the pencil can be marked on the top center between the crankcase transfere port and a small protracting 90 degree square can be used for exact measuring. if you get abit stuck with my list of how to check the timing, please ask or pm me.
Hope this helps out some people. I know I checked my timing after I read RD's post. And thanks to RD for sharing his knowledge and experience with us.
Cheers,
red
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49cc CAG
Hydraulic brakes
15:1 head
Boost ported barrel & piston
33mm full circle crank
Japanese bearings & seals
Del rep 14/14 SHA carby with v-stack & pod filter
Lightened flywheel
NGK plug
Triple stage reeds
3 shoe clutch with 10T springs
Fatboy exhaust
6/66 gearing
Chinese slicks