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UPDATED; want your cag engine quicker?

Pocket Bikes Performance Tips


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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 21-06-2006, 07:53 PM
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hi,ive just bought a r3 with a cag engine from ebay im not mech smart only no basics i want to turn it into a 2 stroke weapon to kick my mates ass what can i do thats not to costly can anyone help me and do turbos and nos stuff your engine?
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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 21-06-2006, 08:00 PM
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hello,i just bought a r3 with a cag engine off ebay i want to make it a 2stroke weapon to kick my mates ass im not very mech minded so can anyone help me with how i should go about it and would it be to costly? and does nos and turbos stuff your engine as i want them to please help
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 21-06-2006, 09:13 PM
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you cant turbo a 2stroke. dont ask why!we dont whant to turn this into another agument!

you can get nos and i CAN stuf up you engien
what is you budjet? and how long is the track?(or road)

heres a list of mods
http://www.pocket-bike-racing.com.au...-modifications
and here
http://www.pocket-bike-racing.com.au...ket-bike-parts

work it out to ur bugjet. also RD RACING good head kits for $50, that includes postage,pistong rings,pistion,head,gacket,wistpin
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Old 09-08-2006, 02:16 AM
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it really does have little effect on top end power... or any power for that matter. the only noticable effect a lightened flywheel will have on the engine is that it will rev quicker, a definite advantage. perhaps what you are thinking of is this: a lightened flywheel means that an engine will be less able to keep a given RPM going uphill. this doent matter with pocketbikes (they're not fast enough in the first place) only cars. bottom line: lighten tha flywheel fool! haha

also, a lightened flywheel used in conjunction with stronger clutch springs gives much better acceleration =D works great for my cheapo ebay-sourced CAD pocketbike =]

cheers
[~]
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2006, 07:29 AM
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I slightly mod'd my Samurai CAG recently - put in a new High Flow Fuel Filter (have Braided Line on order!) & gave it a test - went better! Added a New Pipe/Can (Exhaust for all u dummies out there) but Acceleration seems a little Slower though Top Speed seems Better, how do i get my Acceleration back? Maybe it woz the Steel Clutch Pads i put in? I have to put in my Radial Advance Timing Key! Also, a Single-stage F/G Reed Valve, Carb Jet Kit (4 Jets, 66-72), 16mm Walbro-style Carby & Lightened Balanced Flywheel are on the way, along with Aluminium MEATHOOK Footpegs, NSK H/D Racing Wheel Bearings. Soon i wanna put in a RD Head Kit (15:1 Comp), add a Boost Bottle & NOS!!! Gotta have Decent Filters if ya want em to Go! I Oil my Air Filter with a proper Motorcycle Air Filter Oil (FAB1 - Sprays-on, nice & easy!) & use CASTROL High Performance Chain Oil. At 1st i used SHELL Advance SX 2 Stroke Motor Oil, but am now trying VALVOLINE 2 Stroke Racing Oil. I use Regular Unleaded, but did try Premium awhile back & it seemed to be Good, so am gonna give it another go now that engine's Run-in. Wanna try an Additive too, like an Octane Booster/Carb Cleaner, c how it goes? Will let ya's all know how i go with my Testing. Ciao 4 now, Nimir-Anu.
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2006, 11:28 PM
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intrepid
I reccomend shell advanced M its a dirty oil but doesnt glaze bores or wear out piston rings quickly. Use it when running in engine especially.
Smells good when zooming past down the Straight.
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:06 PM
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hey sry to change the subject and this might be a really stupid question but im kinda new at this.. what exactly is a billet head kit and are the different colours purely for aesthetic purposes?
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2007, 06:53 PM
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billet alloy usually means machined from alloy with a shiny finish
& u can get many different colours by the anodising of the alloy its self
anodising is like a coloured acid type etching or staining of the alloy so it still has a shiny metallic finish but in whatever colour
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Old 08-03-2007, 09:26 PM
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cheers buddy
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2007, 09:37 PM
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the term billet acually refers to an item that has been machined (usally CNC) from one block of alloy, so it therefore has no casting marks or weak spots in it.
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