Rules for starter boxes

[bennysthe1]

Yeh i know. gets a bit like that. I am building at the mo will come to under $100. Still expencive but its cheaper than buying a new pull start every 2 weeks at $25.

[Stellerlicious]

wat comp are u running?
and if its just the paw thing in the middle might as well get a metal one

[Brian]

Sounds like a really good idea as I have killed a few pull starts, they were the plastic housing variety, one that let go destroyed the flywheel which in turn sent broken bits of fins through the fuel tank and crankcasing. I changed to an alloy housing with an alloy pawl and touch wood, everything is going well. The only problem I can imagine with the remote starter is, as mentioned, if you stall on the grid or if you have an off which results in the bike stopping. That would mean gameover for the race.
Still a good idea though.

[bennysthe1]

I currently have a full aluminum setup, however the cord snaps and the wound spring stretches and leaves half the cord hanging out the back. I could just decrease the compression but that would mean less power and I'm used to what I've got now. If anyone could come up with a decompression lever I would be extremely grateful as I think that would work well too.

[Brian]

benny, this might be a silly question but how do you start your bike? Do you just grab the pull start and yank or do you pull it at a slower speed until you feel the pawl engage and then yank?

[faithy1234]

A mate and myself have built one using a battery drill. Just attatch a pawl to a shaft that sticks in your drill, put it in forward and pull the trigger. You'll have to cut a hole in you pull starter assembly with a hole-saw or you can get an alloy pull start and unscrew the puller section. We used a 24 volt drill.

[faithy1234]

Hey Bennysthe1, is that a firestorm you have as an avatar? I ride an R1 'fighter with 177rwhp (does awesome wheelies!) It's good to know others on this site ride real bikes... Not that pocket bikes aren't real, but you know what I mean.

I don't know if you've done this, but take off the right side muffler on your VTR and have a look down the pipe. You'll see a section of exhaust at the Y-piece that half covers the right pipe (you'll see what I mean when you take the can off). Grind this away with a die grinder or file. You'll gain an extra 2-3 hp plus make it sound a little better. We did this with a mates bike and it only took 15 minutes and cost nothing. Worth every minute!

[bennysthe1]

Hey faithy1234
Yeh the pipe modes were the first thing I did. Pisses of the neighbors and missus when you start it at 6.30am and warm it up in the morning tho. lol.
Brian, I do engage the pawl then yank but I had way too much compression. It would just dead stop almost. I have just shimmed it all to reduce compression and am putting it back together tonight. Hopefully it will fix all my problems.

[beans]

You can fit a chainsaw decompression valve if you really need one.Grind a few finns back drill a 10mm hole.Tap it out and screw it in.Pull the button and fire her up.Easy.Did it meself.3rd 4th and 5th fin on the clucth side from the top of the barrel

[mac90]

yeah alot of stihl saws have a decompression valve im sure a chainsaw spare parts joint would stock them mabee lol
if not try round up a dead cylinder with one on it you may be able to use the valve but i guess your running a 2 piece head that may make things hard ??

hehe get rid of the clutch go direct drive n just pushstart her every race lmao may be slow off the line pushing it but no more replacing clutches or clutch slip